Snowdonia is a real climber’s playground, here’s our tips for the best spots
Snowdonia offers some of the best climbing in the UK. For those who prefer bouldering, there’s plenty of that up for grabs too. Here are some of our favourite climbs.
1. Plas y Brenin – (for all abilities)
The National Mountain Sports Centre is unmatched in its wide offering of courses and holidays for outdoor enthusiasts. Whether you’re new to climbing and bouldering or you’re looking for some expert tips to help you reach the next grade, there’s something for everyone.
Find out more at: http://www.pyb.co.uk/
2. Great Gully – Craig yr Ysfa – (difficult)
Great Gully is one of Craig yr Ysfa’s classic climbs. With a difficulty rating of grade three, it’s not advisable for inexperienced climbers. For those up to the challenge though, it’s a varied route with breath taking views from the top.
The route can be downloaded from: http://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/c.php?i=97331
3. Gashed Crag, First Pinnacle Rib, Grooved Arete – Tryfan (very difficult)
Boasting challenging yet popular climbs, you’ll be in great company on Gashed Crag, First Pinnacle Rib and Grooved Arete. Finding the routes can be complex, but no experienced climber should go home from Snowdonia without completing them. If bouldering is more your cup of tea however, there’s plenty on offer in Ogwen Valley.
Download the app for iPhone here: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/north-wales-rock/id480197825?ls=1&mt=8
Download the app for Android here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thesend.activity
4. Milestone Direct Route – Milestone Buttress – (hard very severe – HVS)
Positioned close to the main road (A5) this route is easy to access. It can be difficult to find your foothold though due to the many climbers who’ve taken this approach over the years. Some bouldering is available nearby if you don’t have enough equipment for this hard very severe (HVS) climb.
The route can be downloaded from: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/milestone-buttress/106067285
5. Glyder Fach – (moderate to difficult)
Depending on your ability, there are 97 climbs to choose from. From the moderate Main Gully Ridge on the east buttress to the extreme Slim Chance on the Hawks nest buttress, you’ll find plenty here to get stuck into.
Routes can be downloaded from: http://www.summitpost.org/glyder-fach/305532
6. Carreg Wastad – Crackstone Rib & Wrinkle – (severe)
A busy route for competent climbers, Crackstone Rib takes you right up the middle of Carreg Wastad. Good rope work is required as you make your way up this well-trodden climb. There are some bouldering problems of various grades at Carreg Wastad and Llanberis Pass.
The route can be downloaded from: http://climber.co.uk/articles/uk-classic-climbs/uk-classic-crackstone-rib-s-4a-carreg-wastad-llanberis-pass.html
7. Flying Buttress – Dinas Cromlech – (very difficult)
This classic steep route boasts six pitches of full on climbing. Take care on the main wall on the third pitch as this is the most exposed. For those climbing at the very difficult grade, this route is sheer enjoyment from start to finish. There are lots of bouldering problems on the roadside below Dinas Cromlech.
The route can be downloaded from: http://mountaineeringjoe.co.uk/dinas-cromlech-flying-buttress-classic-route/
8. Llywydd – Avalanche/ Red Wall & Longlands Continuation – (hard very difficult – HVD)
Routes steeped in history, Avalanche, Red Wall and Longlands Continuation were used as training for the Mount Everest team of 1953. Although not as challenging as some of Snowdonia’s climbs, they’re classic routes which can be completed as part of Snowdonia Adventures’ rock climbing and coasteering courses.
Routes can be downloaded from: http://www.snowdonia-adventures.co.uk/rockclimbing/classic.html
9. Tremadog – Craig Ddu Wall – (very severe)
Pack your abseiling equipment and start climbing the big buttress of Tremadog. Made up of two pitches, Craig Ddu Wall is ideal for climbers used to grades very severe and above. There is limited bouldering nearby for those interested.
The route can be downloaded from: http://snowdoniamountainguides.com/Routes-Topos-Resources/Craig-List-North-Wales-Climbs-For-MIA.php
10. Tryfan Snowdonia – (moderate to hard very severe)
For scrambling, mountaineering and classic rock climbing, there’s nowhere better than Tryfan. Its clean rock makes it accessible regardless of the weather. A total of 79 climbs (of varying grades) up the east face of Tryfan will leave you spoiled for choice. There are plenty of bouldering problems at the foot of Milestone Buttress and further up the mountain.
Routes can be downloaded from: http://www.eryri-npa.gov.uk/
